The most important element of the belay is the anchor. The anchor is a fixed point of attachment such as a tree， rock， or other “bombproof” attachment. Most belay accidents are caused through failure of the belayer. Therefore， it is important to use two anchors or slings when possible and test the anchor first by applying stress.
固定保护绳最重要的部分就是锚点。锚点是指绳索的固定点，例如树、岩石或其他结实的固定点。大多数固定保护绳事故都是由于保护者的失误造成的。因此尽可能使用两个锚点或绳套，并首先用力测试一下锚点。
2. Friction
2. 摩擦力
Friction is what keeps one alive if there is a fall. Sometimes the human body is used for friction. Many belay devices aid the belayer in protecting the climber above or below. The belayer should be secured to a fixed anchor in certain situations， i.e.， the climber outweighs his belayer. The belayer protects the life of the climber at all times. Should his/her climber fall， one hand is always the “brake hand”. The other hand is the “guide hand”. It is imperative not to confuse these functions in the heat of a fall. Practice until holding with the proper hand is automatic.
在降落时，摩擦力是对人至关重要的因素。有时候，人体也被用于摩擦。有的固定保护绳装置协助保护者保护上面或下面的攀岩者。保护者应该受到保护，并有一个固定的锚点，以防攀岩者的体重超过保护者。保护者应该始终保证攀岩者的安全。如果有攀岩者掉了下去，保护者的一只手将被用于停止降落，而另一只手则用于指导。在有人降落的危险时刻，这些功能是不允许混淆的。一定要多加练习，直到双手形成了某种惯性。
3. Position
3. 位置
Robbins continues by writing that friction is useless unless the body is braced toward the direction of pull. Usually， this means a straight leg on the side of the rope going to the climber. The belayer places himself so as to minimize any adverse action upon the body， and generally faces the wall. Since it is not easy to judge the direction of force in a fall， much less the extent of force， the belayer must evaluate each situation and make use of the rock for the most secure position. Often he/she must be prepared for forces from various directions.
罗宾斯在书中说道，如果身体没有受到牵引力的作用，那么摩擦力也是没有任何用处的。通常情况下，这意味着靠近攀岩绳一侧的腿要保持挺直。保护者将自己固定，以减少身体的反作用，而且通常情况下要面对岩壁。由于在降落过程中很难判断受力的方向，更不用说受力的大小，因此保护者必须对每一种情况进行估量，并利用岩石取得最安全的位置。通常，他们需要准备承受来自不同方向的力。
Conservation
保护措施
Conservation of a route involves leaving it unchanged so others may enjoy nature and the climb. Use runners and “placed” protections whenever possible because they leave the rock intact. Pitons are not used for “free climbing” any more. They destroy the rock. Bolts are used only when necessary， and， only with permission of the land manager. Take your litter with you unless it is organic. Even orange rinds are slow to disintegrate and not eaten by animals.
对路线的保护措施包括保证路线的固定性，这样其他人可以享受自然和攀登的过程。随时使用带环和固定的保护装置，因为这样可以保持岩石的完整。自由攀登是不使用岩钉的。因为他们破坏了岩石。锚钉也只是在必要时，并获得当地管理人员同意之后才能使用。要随身携带垃圾袋，除非是有机的。即使桔子皮也需要很长时间才能被分解，而且不会有动物来吃。
Final Tips
最后提示
The amount of strength one is able to conserve is far more important in rock climbing than the amount of strength one has. Move with a bit of spring and rhythm. Rest when you can. While resting， study the climb ahead. Use leg muscles for climbing， arms for balance and security.
在攀岩运动中，个人的耐力要比爆发力重要得多。要按照一定的弹力和节奏移动。在允许的情况下，可以休息。但是在休息过程中，要考虑后面的攀登。利用腿部肌肉攀登，用胳膊来保持平衡，以保证自身安全。
Caution： loose rock is your enemy. It is impossible to tell whether a hold is solid by looking at it. All handholds should be tested. Handholds are struck with the heel of the hand； footholds are kicked for testing.
注意：松软的岩石是你的天敌。仅仅看表面很难判断你攀住的岩石是否结实。任何一个手点都要仔细检查。手点要用手的踝关节进行检查，而脚点要通过踢来检查。
Rock climbing (not mountaineering as in climbing Mt. Everest) is a fastgrowing sport for all ages and both sexes. Indoor “Rock Gyms” are popular in the metroplex for staying in shape. They are no substitute for outdoor climbing on “real” rock.
攀岩并非攀登喜马拉雅山的登山运动，它是一项发展迅速的运动，适合任何年龄和性别。用于保持体形的室内“攀岩场馆”在大城市非常流行。但是它们无法取代室外真正的攀岩运动。
What Makes Silicon Valley So Successful and Unique
硅谷的独特氛围
Silicon Valley is a magnet to which numerous talented engineers， scientists and entrepreneurs from overseas flock to in search of fame， fast money and to participate in a technological revolution whose impact on mankind will surely surpass the epochmaking European Renaissance and Industrial Revolution of the bygone age.
硅谷犹如一块磁铁，把许许多多禀赋特出的工程师、科学家、企业家从世界各地聚集来这里，一起追求成名致富，并投身于技术革命的大潮，其影响及于人类，必将远超过划时代的欧洲文艺复兴和产业革命。
The unprecedented success of the Valley is a testimony to the concerted international endeavours and contributions by people from diverse cultural and racial backgrounds， made possible by the favourable political， economic and intellectual climate prevailing， as well as the farsighted policies of the US government.
互联网急速普及，深刻地改变了人们生活、工作、贸易、思维以及彼此沟通的方式。硅谷成为世界电脑中心，其声誉无可动摇，靠的是美国和世界各地人才的不懈努力贡献。
It is noteworthy that close to 50% of its skilled manpower， including engineers， scientists and entrepreneurs， come from Asia. Prominent among them are Indians and Chinese， and not a few Singaporeans. They include such illustrious names as Vinod Khosla who cofounded Sun Microsystems， Jerry Yang of Yahoo fame and Singaporean Sim Wong Hoo， to name a few.
值得注意的是，硅谷地区的专业人力资源，包括工程师、科学家和企业家，有将近一半来自亚洲，尤其是印度和中国，也有不少来自新加坡。其中声名卓着者，略举数例，便有太阳微系统的创始人之一文诺·考斯拉、雅虎的创始人杨致远，以及新加坡的沈望傅。
Many countries have， or are in the process of creating， their own “Silicon Valley”. So far， none has as yet threatened the preeminence of the US prototype. What makes Silicon Valley such a unique entity？ There are several crucial factors.
许多国家也有了自己的“硅谷”，或正在着手建设，但至今无一威胁到美国硅谷的领先地位。美国硅谷与众不同，究竟秘诀何在呢？有若干至关重要的因素。
First and foremost， it has the largest concentration of brilliant computer professionals and the best supporting services in the world， and easy access to worldclass research institutions， like Stanford University， which continually nurtures wouldbe geniuses which the industry needs in order to move forward. Without these advantages， the Valley would be a different place.
首先，硅谷有着世界最大最密集的优秀电脑专才群体、最佳的后援服务体系，并紧密联系着斯坦福大学等世界一流的研究机构，而后者正源源不断地培育出电脑业赖以发展的明日天才。若缺少这些有利条件，硅谷的面貌便会大不一样。
